Making Roux with the High Priestess of the Bayou

It’s hard to make any authentic New Orleans dish without starting with a roux base, but cooking a proper roux is one of the most difficult skills to master. So I jumped at the chance to attend a class on cooking roux from the High Priestess of the Bayou, aka Janice Bourgeois “Boo” Macomber.

The High Priestess, "Boo" Macomber

And why was she teaching this class? Because she just published a book, of course! The High Priestess also teaches cooking classes throughout Louisiana, and this class was sponsored by the Southern Food & Beverage Museum. That was enough culinary credibility for me. More importantly, she was taught to cook in the traditional Cajun way by her mother and grandmother.

This is what a blonde roux looks like.

Here are a few of the roux-making secrets I learned from the High Priestess. How long do you cook the roux? For three beers. When a teetotaler asked for clarification, she advised 45 minutes over medium heat and 15 minutes over high heat. But, she warned, you should never attempt to cook a roux over high heat unless you are a born and bred Cajun. What do you do with roux? Turns out that roux is for much more than just gumbo. It can be used as the basis for red beans & rice, dirty rice, jambalaya, and many other popular dishes. 

Lined up for a taste of the High Priestess' cooking.

According to the High Priestess, this is the proper way to cook a roux.

Ingredients

Holy Trinity (3 onions, 4-5 celery stalks, and 1 bell pepper, chopped)

Resurrection (the addition of 3-4 minced garlic cloves to the Holy Trinity)

Trifecta (Worcestershire sauce, salt, and cayenne pepper)


Preparation

  

1.       Start with a large saucepan and warm it over medium heat. Add 3/4 cup vegetable oil and 1 cup flour and begin stirring. Do not use butter or olive oil.

2.       Open your first beer and turn on some music.

3.       Keep stirring. It should be bubbling but not burning.

4.       Open your second beer. Your roux should have some color. This stage is called a blonde roux.

5.       Keep stirring.

6.       Open your third beer. When your roux turns the color of peanut butter, throw in one chopped onion. The onion will cool down the roux, and the caramelizing of the onion will keep the roux from burning.

7.       Add the rest of the onion.

8.       Add the rest of the Holy Trinity (or Resurrection, if you prefer).

9.        Season with the Trifecta to taste.

     10.   You’re done! Open another beer and celebrate.

Jambalaya made with the High Priestess' roux.

We are leaving New Orleans soon, so my first attempt at roux will be in California. But as long as I cook it while drinking Abita and listening to zydeco, my roux should be a success.